This plan shows a typical floor bearer layout for a cabin with an overall dimension of 3.0m – you should refer to your own set of plans for the exact layout of these for your cabin. If you have an insulated floor, a 19mm thick timber edging piece is supplied to fix along the ends of the bearers to close the ends off (there are no air voids with an insulated floor and therefore no ventilation is required). The interlocking wall log notch is typically set in by 0.1m from each log end, hence the base measuring 2.8m. Please note that the plan shows the spacing between each of the bearers as well as the width of the bearer on plan view. Floor bearers are always laid “flatways” in order to allow for the floorboards to be fitted at the end of the job as described later on. Please note that they are called floor bearers and not floor joists, this is because they are designed to be supported by a sub-base. They are not designed to take the full load and span from one side of the building to the other.
It is good practise to lay a damp proof membrane (DPM) on top of your base before starting to install the building. If the base is over-sized, the DPM should be cut about 200mm larger than the base size required for the cabin, it can then be folded over on top of the floor bearers and trapped by the first course of logs to make it stay in position. This means that should water get on top of your base and under the building, the water will stay under the DPM rather than get on top of it, keeping all of the timber dry. Ventilation holes can then be cut sufficiently above the base level, if required, to keep the standing water at bay. Finishing trims can then be fixed around the edge of the base in order to hide the DPM if required (not provided in our kit).
The logs are joined in the middle of a partition wall or portal archway. The metal plate is supplied in long lengths which can be cut to length on site with snips or hacksaw. The joining logs should be tightly clamped and then fixed using a screw through the metal plate either side of the joint which will stop the logs spreading in the future (these screws should be angled away from each other slightly as this will pull the joint together and also increases the pulling strength of the screws). Every course of logs should be joined in this way.
Screw the timber flanges to the underside of the purlins and screw the coving support to the side walls (the flange for the ridge beam is from thicker timber and has the 2 lower corners cut at 45 degrees to form a feature detail). We provide lengths of T&G boarding that will require cutting down to suit the gaps between the purlins (these should be cut around 10mm shorter to allow for movement and irregularities between the purlins). Lay the short lengths of T&G boarding between the purlins, resting on the flanges. Making sure that there are 10mm spaces at the start and finish of each bay in case the boarding swells.
NB Do not fix the roof boards tightly together as they may swell and cause damage to your roof structure and felt.
Once the felt roll has been fitted, the barge boards and fascias can be fitted which helps to hold the felt down. (Installation of other roofing materials, ie felt shingles / recycled rubber roof tiles / onduvilla, will vary slightly from the above method - please refer to the installation guide for that specific product if it is relevant)
Screw/nail pack identifier if you have chosen our fixing kit:-
|Screw/nail pack chart|
|Pack A||20mm clout nails for roofing material|
|Pack B||2.65x50mm nails for fixing roof/floor boards|
|Pack C||4x80mm screws for insulated cabin inner roof construction|
|Pack D||3.5x45mm screw packs for windows & door linings/architraves|
|Pack E||If vapour barrier is supplied for the walls (air pressure test required) – corner log to log screws (4x80mm screws)|
|Pack F||If vapour barrier is supplied for the walls (air pressure test required) – cavity 19x38 batten (4x50mm screws)|
|Pack G||Wind bracing (8x40mm coach bolts/washers) AND/OR garage door packs (8x40mm coach bolts/washers) AND double door frame (4x80mm screws)|
Once the cabin has been installed it is very important that it is painted with a high quality preservative/stain immediately (all of the exterior as well as the interior including the ceiling), the exterior coating must also be water repellent.
It is very important that anything fixed in the vertical direction is done so using flexible joints (ie slots) to allow for future log movement (ie- shelving, electrical conduit, cabinets, etc.), and allowing at least 50mm of expansion or contraction gap.Adjustments: Once built, log cabins will take approximately 2/3 weeks to "settle down", where the height of the building will reduce by at least 25mm. Inevitably this could cause some of the doors/windows to bind slightly, this is easily rectified by using the adjustable hinges to re-align the door/casement. We are not responsible for these adjustments.
Sometimes the frames may need re-squaring as well, again this is easily done by unscrewing the 2 internal side architraves, re-squaring the frame (equalling out all of the clearance gaps around the casement/door), temporarily wedge in place, then measure the gaps between the frame and the logs at either side of the frame, cut some packers just slightly less than the gaps (you do not want to wedge it so tightly that the logs are unable to move up and down) and screw or tack the packers into place. Finally remove the temporary wedges and replace the side architraves.
We strongly advise an annual maintenance for every door and window - lift each one off of it's hinges, grease or oil the hinge pins then replace. Also oil any locks. This will ensure optimum performance.
Further helpful hints and advice can be found within the resources section at the bottom of this page and also at http://www.hortonsgroup.com/faqs